A Journey through Kagawa, the Udon Prefecture- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
I and my husband flew from Tokyo to Kagawa Prefecture, rented a car at Takamatsu Airport, and set off on our trip to Kagawa. First, let me introduce my beloved udon. Kagawa Prefecture is known as "Udon Prefecture," with over 700 udon shops lining its streets. Authentic Sanuki udon offers a variety of styles, from simple kake (hot broth) udon and bukkake (cold broth poured over noodles) udon to niku bukkake (udon topped with meat) and seasonal specialties like shippoku udon. The broth and toppings have unique local innovations. Udonnomigi (udon pilgrimage), where people visit multiple shops to savor different flavors, has become part of Kagawa's culture, ranging from long-loved traditional shops to popular places with long lines.
During a one-night trip, we visited FOUR udon shops. After getting full, we headed to Konpirasan...
The first UDON restaurant; Kawata- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Udon-hopping
Sanuki udon; Sanuki udon is mainly made from the following
ingredients:
Wheat flour (medium-strength flour is commonly used)
Water
Salt
The preparation involves adding salt water to the wheat flour and mixing patiently. Then the dough is gathered together, kneaded by foot to stretch it, rolled thin, and cut into thin strips. After boiling, the noodles are rinsed with running water and finished. It is made with very simple ingredients and is characterized by highlighting the flavor of the wheat.
Kawata Udon(restaurant’s name) - just a 3-minute drive from Takamatsu Airport.
A udon restaurant I went to right after renting a car upon arriving at Takamatsu Airport.
It is a long-established shop with 80 years of history, proud of its thick and chewy hand-made Sanuki udon. However, it was different from the udon I had imagined. The udon was too soft, and I found it somewhat lacking.- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Beef Udon- sukiyaki-style udon
The second UDON place , with the author Tomokita in Nakamura udon shop- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Self-service style where you add your favorite toppings－Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
My favorite UDON combination is Naruto wakame seaweed, tempura bits, and green onions.- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
The third UDON place-https://www.udon448.com/
I and my husband just had the most delicious UDON I've ever eaten!!!!
We happened to visit the udon restaurant "Jun Teuchi Udon Yoshiya," whose owner, Yoshitaka Yamashita, established the Japan Udon Association in 2024 and currently serves as its chairman. This association is an organization dedicated to sharing and resolving challenges faced by udon restaurants across Japan, while also focusing on the future of udon culture. I was surprised to learn afterward that he is a highly renowned figure. Despite his warm and approachable personality, he showed no hint of that and remained sincerely devoted to his craft. Above all, I am deeply grateful to have had the chance to taste what I truly believe to be the world's most delicious udon. Gochisousama deshita!
The UDON noodles, carefully hand-cut one by one with a knife, have a natural twist that allows them to hold the broth beautifully. Unlike uniform machine-cut noodles, the slight irregularities of hand-cut strands create a pleasant texture and a simple, nostalgic flavor.
The fourth udon restaurant- Konpira udon- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
The restaurant opens from 7 a.m. The staffs kindly prepared everything for us early in the morning. Thank you very much! Gochisou sama desita.- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Konpira Shrine (Kotohira-gu Shrine)
Heading to Konpira-san at sunrise. The long stone stairway approach is famous, with 785 steps leading to the main shrine, and a total of 1,368 steps to the inner shrine.- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Konpira Shrine is located halfway up Mount Kotohira (also called Zozu Mountain) in Kotohira Town, Kagawa Prefecture. It has been worshipped as a sea god since ancient times. Its founding dates back to around the late 7th century (668–671 AD). The main deity enshrined is Omononushi no Kami, a guardian of maritime safety and sea transportation.
一之坂鳥居－金毘羅さん- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Originally called "Kotohira Shrine," it was syncretized with Buddhism during the Heian period and called "Konpira Daigongen." In the Edo period, it was deeply revered by common people and warriors. However, due to the separation of Shinto and Buddhism in the Meiji period, it was renamed "Kotohira-gu Shrine" and took its current form.
The shrine precincts feature a stone stairway with 785 steps, which many worshippers climb to reach the main shrine. Kotohira-gu is also known as the head shrine of all Konpira shrines throughout Japan and attracts many tourists and worshippers year-round.
The stone steps ahead are still long- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Thus, with its long history and spiritual significance, Konpira Shrine stands as a representative cultural and sightseeing spot in Kagawa Prefecture.
Origin and Mythical Background of Konpira Faith
The origin of Konpira faith derives from the Hindu god "Kumbhira," a water god personified as a crocodile living in the Ganges River, represented in Japan as a serpent form. Kumbhira came to be worshipped as a protector of maritime traffic, especially by those wishing for safe boating and fishing.
Konpira Gongen was originally the guardian deity of Matsuo Temple on Zozu Mountain in Kotohira Town and is said to have been discovered by the ascetic En no Ozuno during the Taiho era. In the Edo period, under the influence of syncretism, it developed as "Konpira Daigongen" and became linked with tengu worship. As a popular faith, the custom of pilgrimages climbing the stone steps to pray for maritime safety and abundant catches spread, and many Konpira shrines were established nationwide.
旭社（重要文化財）It is a famous power spot in Shikoku that attracts 4 million visitors annually.- 金毘羅さん- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
In the Edo period, there was a custom at Kotohira Shrine (Konpira-gu) in Sanuki (now Kagawa Prefecture) where dogs would make the pilgrimage on behalf of people who found it difficult to visit the shrine themselves. These dogs wore a small bag around their necks with the words "Konpira Pilgrimage" written on it, containing the owner's name, an offering fee, and travel expenses. The dogs traveled accompanied by pilgrims and, after visiting the shrine, returned home by themselves. These dogs were called "Konpira Inu," and they were considered special beings that connected Kotohira Shrine (Konpira-san) and dogs.
The social background of the Sengoku period's invasion of Sanuki by Chosokabe Motochika from Tosa and the establishment of religious facilities by ascetics also helped expand Konpira faith.
Thus, Konpira belief formed and developed through ancient Indian water deity worship transmitted via Buddhism, rooted deeply in Japanese maritime safety and daily life.
Social Factors Behind the Popularity of Konpira Pilgrimage in the Edo Period
The popularity of Konpira pilgrimages in the Edo period can be attributed to these social factors:
Now, I've made it to the top!‐本宮- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
The main shrine offers a sweeping view.- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
The peaceful Edo period saw a boom in travel among common people, with pilgrimages to hot springs and temples becoming popular.
Kotohira-gu was widely known as a place to pray for maritime safety, and shrines dedicated to Konpira were established in urban feudal lord residences in Edo and Osaka, increasing worshippers and faith.
From the mid-Edo period onward, pilgrimage groups called Konpira-ko were formed mainly by feudal lords and merchants, promoting group pilgrimages. This motivated many people and increased both individual and group pilgrimages.
The establishment of sea routes called "Konpirafune" from Edo and Osaka improved access and boosted pilgrim numbers.
Financial and community support, such as fundraising by prominent Edo merchants for lantern construction in Marugame, underpinned the pilgrimage boom.
These overlapping reasons connected with the common desire to visit Konpira-san at least once in a lifetime, leading to the boom in the late Edo period.
Therefore, the popularity of Konpira pilgrimage in the Edo period was supported not just by religious devotion but also by social, economic, and travel culture developments.
May the world be at peace.- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
My travel diary will continue in the next blog.（Next, to the birthplace of Kūkai）
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