A Trip to the Birthplace of Kūkai in the UDON Prefecture- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
On the second day of my stay in Kagawa Prefecture, I visited Zentsū-ji, the birthplace of the Buddhist monk Kūkai, also known posthumously as Kōbō Daishi. Revered as a religious leader, educator, cultural figure, and engineer, he has had a profound and lasting influence on Japanese history, and his character and achievements continue to be admired by countless people today.
空海（弘法大師）－善通寺- Japnanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi)
Kūkai was born in 774 in Sanuki Province (present-day Kagawa Prefecture). He was a monk of the early Heian period and the founder of the Shingon school of Buddhism. Traveling to Tang-dynasty China, he studied esoteric Buddhism, which he later introduced and systematized in Japan. After returning home, he established the monastic complex at Mount Kōya and developed Tō-ji Temple in Kyoto as a central training and teaching site for Shingon practice.
He was also a master calligrapher, remembered in Japanese proverbs such as “Even Kōbō’s brush makes mistakes” and “Kōbō does not choose his brush.” His lifetime work extended far beyond religion, with contributions to education, public works, and culture. He founded the first institution of learning for commoners, initiated meal programs, and compiled dictionaries. At the age of 32, he received the authentic transmission of esoteric Buddhist teachings in China; at 42, he established the Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage; at 43, he founded Mount Kōya; and at 62, he entered eternal meditation (passed away). In 921, Emperor Daigo posthumously granted him the honorific title “Kōbō Daishi.” His teachings and legacy remain deeply rooted in Japanese religion and culture.
Major Achievements of Kūkai
Founding the Shingon school of Buddhism after mastering esoteric teachings in China and transmitting them to Japan
Establishing Mount Kōya as a sacred training ground for Shingon practitioners
Developing Tō-ji Temple in Kyoto as the central institution of Shingon Buddhism
Promoting education by founding the Shugei Shuchi-in, the first school in Japan open to common people
Overseeing the reconstruction of the Manno Reservoir embankment in Kagawa, a feat of engineering that still benefits the region more than 1,200 years later
Excelling in calligraphy, recognized as one of the “Three Great Calligraphers of Japan,” and compiling one of the earliest Chinese character dictionaries, Tenrei Banshō Meigi
Initiating the Shikoku 88 Sacred Sites Pilgrimage, which became a major spiritual and cultural tradition
Contributing to regional development through hot spring cultivation and other cultural endeavors
善通寺-Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Proverbs Attributed to Kōbō Daishi
“Kōbō does not choose his brush”
This saying means that true masters can produce excellent results regardless of the tools they use. In other words, skill matters more than instruments, while mediocrity often blames tools. Historically, however, it is said that Kōbō in fact did select good brushes, acknowledging the importance of quality tools. Yet as a proverb, it serves as a teaching that genuine talent transcends reliance on equipment.“Even Kōbō’s brush makes mistakes”
This proverb conveys that even the most accomplished experts sometimes make errors. It originates from an anecdote in which Kōbō, renowned as a calligraphy master, mistakenly left out a stroke while inscribing the plaque of the Ōtenmon Gate, then skillfully corrected it with his brush. The phrase reflects humility, humanity, and the importance of calmly addressing mistakes. It is also comparable to the saying “Even monkeys fall from trees.”
Zentuuji-Kagawa, Japan-Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Zentsū-ji
Zentsū-ji is a major temple of Shingon Buddhism located in Zentsūji City, Kagawa Prefecture, established on the site where Kōbō Daishi was born. Its founding dates back to 807, when Kūkai built it next to a temple of his ancestors.
The temple grounds consist of two main precincts: the East Precinct and the West Precinct. The East Precinct, founded by Kūkai, houses the Golden Hall with an image of Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha). The West Precinct marks the birthplace of Kūkai, where the Miei-dō (Founder’s Hall) enshrines his image as the principal object of worship.
Among the highlights of the temple are a giant camphor tree said to have stood since Kūkai’s time—over 1,100 years old—a five-story pagoda, and the South Gate, built to commemorate Japan’s victory in the Russo-Japanese War. Historically and spiritually, Zentsū-ji has long been regarded as one of the most important pilgrimage sites of the Shikoku 88 Sacred Sites.
五重塔ー善通寺- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
善通寺, Kagawa in Japan- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
Summary
Founded: 807 by Kūkai, beside his ancestral temple
Structure: East Precinct (temple complex) and West Precinct (birthplace and Founder’s Hall)
Main images: Yakushi Nyorai in the Golden Hall, and Kōbō Daishi in the Founder’s Hall
Features: 1,100-year-old camphor tree, five-story pagoda, South Gate
Significance: Central site of devotion to Kōbō Daishi and a key station of the Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage
Zentsū-ji is a temple deeply tied to the life and legacy of Kōbō Daishi, embodying centuries of history, faith, and cultural heritage.
To finish off the trip, I really enjoyed Kagawa’s specialty—bone-in chicken. It was astonishingly delicious and truly exceptional so two days after returning from Kagawa, I couldn’t forget the taste of that grilled chicken on the bone, so I tried to recreate it. However, it felt like something was missing in the seasoning. I’ll give it another try.
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Kagawa’s specialty—bone-in chicken- Japanese home cooking class in Tokyo
